Motorhome buying checklist the 20 minute viewing routine
Don't buy a money pit. Use our 20-minute expert motorhome inspection routine to spot damp, chassis rot, and payload issues before you hand over any cash.
Don't buy a money pit. Use our 20-minute expert motorhome inspection routine to spot damp, chassis rot, and payload issues before you hand over any cash.
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The RoamWorthy editorial team combines decades of caravan, motorhome and campervan ownership experience with industry expertise to provide trusted buying advice.
View all articles →The 20-Minute Motorhome Inspection Routine
Viewings often fail because they turn into a 'vibe check' rather than a technical inspection. To avoid buying a money pit, you must separate your emotional reaction from the mechanical reality. Use this 20-minute structured routine to objectively assess any motorhome, whether it is a compact Volkswagen California, a luxury Niesmann And Bischoff, or a Bürstner A-class.
TL;DR: The Quick Checklist
- Minutes 0-5: Exterior shell, tyre age (DOT codes), and chassis corrosion.
- Minutes 5-12: The 'Sniff & Prod' interior test for damp and floor delamination.
- Minutes 12-20: Payload verification, habitation history, and belt compliance.
- The Golden Rule: If the paperwork doesn't match the VIN plate, walk away.
- Actionable Tip: Always bring a high-powered torch and a damp meter (even a basic one).
Minute 0 to 5: The Exterior Walkaround
Start outside. You are looking for structural integrity and evidence of neglect. In 2026, with many older vans being retrofitted, check for amateur solar installations or poorly sealed roof vents. Before you start, check the Motorhome Models database to see if the specific unit has known recall issues.
- The Shell: Look for water staining or 'pitting' around windows and roof edges. Check for mismatched sealant which suggests a DIY repair. Pay close attention to the seals on Adria or Swift models where roof bars are fitted.
- Tyre Health: Motorhome tyres often have plenty of tread but are dangerously old. Check the 4-digit DOT code (e.g., '1224' means week 12 of 2024). If they are over 5 years old, factor in the cost of a full set. Ensure they are 'CP' (Camping) rated tyres.
- The Underside: Inspect visible chassis areas for excessive corrosion. Look for 'bodges' like expanding foam or fresh underseal used to hide rot. Check the exhaust system and look for oil leaks on the inner wheel rims.
- Windows: Check for delamination (the two panes splitting) or heavy scratching. Ensure all window stays lock into place.
Minute 5 to 12: The Interior Deep-Dive
Step inside and close the door. Your senses are your best tools here. If you are looking at a Campervan Model, space is tighter, making damp smells even more obvious.
- The Sniff Test: Open every high-level cupboard and the wardrobe. A musty, 'old tent' smell is a primary indicator of ingress. Check inside the 'over-cab' bed area if viewing a coachbuilt model like an Auto-Trail Imala.
- The Wallboard Press: Use your thumb to press around window frames and corners. Any 'softness' or 'spring' in the wallboard usually indicates active damp. If you have a damp meter, look for readings above 20% (indicating potential issues).
- Floor Solidity: Walk heavily near the entrance and the washroom. If the floor feels 'spongy,' it may be suffering from delamination (the foam core separating from the plywood). This is a common issue in older Elddis models.
- Soft Furnishings: Lift cushions to check for mould on the underside, especially in models like the Bailey Autograph. Check the condition of the mattress in fixed-bed layouts like the Coachman Laser 665.
Minute 12 to 20: Systems, Weights, and Paperwork
The final minutes are for the 'boring' details that determine if the vehicle is legal and safe for your needs.
- Payload & Weights: Ask to see the stage 2 build plate (often under the bonnet or inside the door frame). Use our Motorhome Weight Checker to ensure you have enough remaining payload for your gear after passengers are accounted for.
- Habitation History: A full service history is good, but a consistent Habitation Check history (ideally to NCC standards) is vital. It proves the gas, electrics, and water systems have been tested annually.
- Belted Seats: Confirm that the number of 'berths' matches the number of 3-point belted travel seats. Do not assume side-facing benches are legal for travel; modern UK regulations are strict on this.
- Layout Practicality: Sit in the lounge and lie on the bed. If you are looking at a Chausson S 514, ensure the transition from day-to-night mode isn't too cumbersome.
Before making an offer, step outside and take five minutes of silence. If you cannot clearly explain the mechanical and structural condition of the van, you aren't ready to buy it yet. For more options, you can browse used motorhomes or Find a Dealer near you. If you are considering a conversion instead, use our Campervan Conversion Checker.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most expensive thing to fix on a motorhome?
Water ingress (damp) is typically the most expensive issue, as it often requires stripping the interior back to the frame. Major gearbox or engine failures on modern Euro 6 engines can also be significantly costly.
Can I drive any motorhome on a standard UK licence?
It depends on the Maximum Authorised Mass (MAM). If the vehicle is over 3,500kg, you generally need a C1 category on your licence. Drivers who passed their test before 1st January 1997 usually have this automatically, but those who passed later must take an additional test.
Should I buy a motorhome without a recent Habitation Check?
It is risky. Without one, you have no proof the gas system is leak-free or the 230v electrics are safe. If buying privately, factor the cost of an immediate check into your offer via the Approved Workshop Scheme (AWS).
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