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    Electric vs Gas: Choosing Caravan Power Sources

    Master the balance between gas and electric power in your caravan. Learn about EHU limits, Lithium upgrades, and cost-saving tips for 2026 touring.

    Master the balance between gas and electric power in your caravan. Learn about EHU limits, Lithium upgrades, and cost-saving tips for 2026 touring.

    7 min read
    Published 13 Jul 2025Updated 5 Mar 2026

    RoamWorthy technical specialists with engineering backgrounds and hands-on experience in caravan and motorhome systems, electrics, and conversions.

    View all articles →

    TL;DR: The Power Balance

    • Electric (EHU): Best for serviced sites, powering tech, and light heating. Limited by site amperage (usually 10A or 16A).
    • Gas (LPG): Essential for off-grid cooking, rapid water heating, and staying warm in winter.
    • The Hybrid Approach: Most UK caravanners use gas for high-intensity heat and electric for sustained, low-draw appliances.
    • 2026 Trend: Increasing shift towards LiFePO4 (Lithium) batteries and solar to reduce reliance on expensive metered site hook-ups.

    Caravans are sophisticated mobile homes operating on two distinct energy ecosystems. While mains electricity and leisure batteries power your lights, sockets, and sensitive electronics, Liquid Petroleum Gas (LPG) remains the heavyweight champion for cooking and rapid space heating. The ideal configuration for your caravan model depends on your touring style, the British weather, and the facilities at your chosen pitch.

    Quick Comparison: Electric vs. Gas

    FeatureElectric (EHU, Battery, Solar)Gas (Propane or Butane)
    Typical SupplySite hook-up (10A/16A). 12V leisure battery. Solar panels.Cylinders (6kg to 13kg). Bulk underslung tanks in some motorhomes.
    StrengthsClean, quiet, included in many site fees. Great for TVs and laptops.High energy density. Reliable in sub-zero temps (Propane). Best for off-grid.
    LimitationsAmperage caps. Batteries require management. Inverters needed for 230V off-grid.Weight/Payload impact. Requires ventilation. Refill availability varies.
    MaintenanceRCD testing, battery health checks, cable inspections.Regulator/hose replacement dates, GasSafe inspections, CO alarms.

    1. The Electric Ecosystem

    Mains Hook-Up (EHU)

    Most UK campsites provide a 230V supply via a blue CEE plug. However, you aren't on unlimited domestic power. Most breakers are rated at 10A (approx. 2.3kW) or 16A (approx. 3.7kW). If you try to run a domestic kettle (3kW) on a 10A supply, you will trip the post. Understanding electric hook-up basics is vital to avoid mid-evening blackouts.

    The Leisure Battery

    Unlike a car's starter battery, a leisure battery is designed for deep cycles. It runs your 12V systems: LED lights, water pumps, and USB ports. Modern caravans like the Swift Challenger SE 480 or the Bailey Unicorn Cartagena often feature advanced control panels to monitor this discharge. For 2026, many owners are upgrading to Lithium (LiFePO4) for faster charging and lighter weight.

    Solar Integration

    Solar is no longer a luxury. A 100W-200W panel can keep a battery topped up indefinitely in summer, allowing you to run your fridge on gas and everything else on 12V without needing a plug. Check your payload using our Caravan Towing Calculator before adding heavy fixed panels.

    2. The Gas Ecosystem

    Propane vs. Butane

    In the UK, Propane (red bottles) is the standard for year-round touring because it gasses off at temperatures as low as -40°C. Butane (blue bottles) stops working near freezing, making it unsuitable for winter trips in a Coachman Laser 665 or Adria Alpina.

    Heating Efficiency

    Gas is incredibly energy-dense. A 6kg propane cylinder contains roughly 80-82 kWh of energy. For context, a Truma or Alde heater (see our heating comparison guide) can output 4kW-6kW on gas, warming a cold van in minutes—something electric elements often struggle to match.

    Practical Energy Math

    The "Hook-up Headroom" Checklist

    Before switching on an appliance, do a quick mental tally. On a 10A (2300W) supply:

    • Fridge (Mains): ~150W
    • Battery Charger: ~100W
    • LED Lighting: ~30W
    • Subtotal: 280W (Leaving ~2020W for other items)
    • Safe to add: A low-wattage travel kettle (1000W) OR a microwave (800W).
    • Danger zone: Adding a domestic 3000W hair dryer will trip the breaker instantly.

    Battery Longevity

    A standard 100Ah Lead-Acid battery only provides 50Ah of usable power before voltage drops too low. If you draw 5A (60W) continuously, you have 10 hours of power. Upgrading to a LiFePO4 (Lithium) battery allows for 80-90% depth of discharge and significantly faster charging cycles.

    Running Costs: 2026 Outlook

    With fluctuating energy prices, the "cheapest" source changes:

    • Inclusive Pitch: If EHU is a flat daily rate, use electric for everything possible.
    • Metered Pitch: Many UK sites now use smart meters. If a 6kg refill is £30, your cost is approx. 37p/kWh. If the site charges 45p/kWh, stick to gas for the heater.

    Safety Essentials

    • Carbon Monoxide (CO): Always have a tested CO alarm. Gas combustion consumes oxygen; never block floor vents or "mushrooms."
    • Cable Safety: Always fully uncoil your EHU cable. A coiled cable acts as an induction coil and can melt under high loads.
    • Inspections: Ensure an annual habitation service is performed by an NCC-approved technician to check gas tightness and RCD trip speeds.

    Recommended Setups by Touring Style

    The "Home-from-Home" (Serviced Sites)

    • Setup: Standard 100Ah battery, 16A EHU cable.
    • Strategy: Use an induction hob and electric kettle to save gas for the BBQ.

    The "Explorer" (Off-Grid/Wild Camping)

    • Setup: 200Ah Lithium battery, 300W+ Solar, Twin 6kg Propane bottles (Refillable systems like Gaslow are popular here).
    • Strategy: Gas for fridge, water, and space heating. Solar for tech and lights.

    FAQs

    Can I run my fridge on 12V while parked?
    Generally, no. Most 3-way absorption fridges only run on 12V when the engine is running (towing) to prevent flattening the leisure battery. Use gas or EHU when stationary. Compressor fridges (common in campervans) are the exception and run on 12V constantly.

    Is an induction hob better than gas?
    Induction is faster and safer (no flame), but it requires a high-amperage hook-up or a very expensive inverter/lithium setup. Many modern vans like the Swift Trekker S are moving toward all-electric or diesel-hybrid options.

    Final Verdict

    For most UK caravanners, a hybrid approach is best. Use the site's electricity for your background needs (fridge, charging, light heating) and keep gas in reserve for cooking and those frosty mornings when you need heat fast. Always check your caravan towing weight limits before adding extra batteries or larger gas cylinders.

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